Chiang Mai Women's Prison

We read in the guide book that the Chiang Mai women's prison has a rehibilitain program wherein the prisinors give Thai Massage (180 Baht). So we decided to give it a go.
To say that it was beautiful in there is an understatement. It was gorgeous. I mean prettier than many spas I've been to in the states.

My lady was very strong and essentially beat me up for 1.5 hours. I even came away with some small bruises. But, it was well worth it. The conversation was pretty interesting. She was 1 month away from release. She was involved in a "snatching" she was the driver in a get away vehicle stealing money. From where or whom, (I assume a bank but who knows) she never said. Beth's lady was selling "yaba" (the drug my taxi driver was talking about) it's an amphetamine, not crack, not meth. My lady got a 3.5 year sentence for her crime, Beth's lady got 5 years.
They we're lovely and sweet. We talked about my tattoo (they liked it) and how old we were. They had us guess their ages 25 yrs (my lady) and 33 yrs (Beth's lady).

They allowed us to take photos but we couldn't photograph them, prison rules.

... Maybe you can tell, I'm having fun and not online much. I'm taking photos though and I have stories to tell. Beth leaves today for her 10 day silent meditation so I'll have more time on my own to tell stories of my travels. I will meet up with her again when she's finished and we'll travel back (by train) to Bangkok after 2 more days here in Chiang Mai. We both fly out of Bangkok on the same morning so we'll share a room there too. Kismet? 

Off the Island!

We made it out!

Our exit from Koh Phangan to Surat Thani was actually not that bad. The rain was still pouring (I've had news from my friend, it's still raining there now too, supplies are low, she says its a dangerous walk to the shala, that 1 person's bungalow washed away into the sea and that it was smart I left.) and the swells were high but it was a proper ferry boat so we were safe. When we got into Surat Thani however, the ferry was unable to dock since the waves were so high. Instead they set up a gang plank and we exited one by one, handing over our bags first and then ourselves. Hands were held, and we were directed on where to place our feet, it was a slow process. I was so happy they were concerned with our safety and that patience was there.

From the boat we had a bus to the city center. We headed to the train station to get tickets to Bangkok and then to Chiang Mai. It was easy. No problem. Train to Bangkok left in a few hours (just enough time to get some snacks including freshly fried in coconut oil banana fritters sprinkled with sesame seeds--amazing-- for the ride and to have lunch) and when we arrived into Bangkok we only had a 3 hour wait for our train to Chiang Mai. Both train journey's would be 12 hours but the first was sleeper so, no big deal. And the second was supposed to be pretty scenery. Awesome.

We got into Bangkok with no issues. The pickings were slim on food though and we didn't have much in the way of options for our ride (dried bananas, salted peanuts, sesame seeds with honey and a few other left over snacks from the night before). It was no longer raining just cloudy and chilly (all the trains and busses blast A/C which we can't understand since everyone is clearly freezing) but we are dry and happy to be moving away from the floods. We've gotten into a rhythm and are settled rather quickly. We begin to look in our guide books and get excited about the things to see and do in Chiang Mai. About 3 hours into our ride we suddenly are shaking, and it feels like the train is hitting something. The noise is almost like going over several wooden planks. We tip a bit and the brakes are being slammed. Beth and I are grabbing each other, scared. The train settles and stops dead on the tracks. When we look to the left we see spattered blood along side our window. Beth is crying and I am hugging her hands and arms. Everyone is in shock. After a little while people are getting off the train to figure out what has happened. It's cold and windy outside but not raining. The driver and other train personal have begun to gather at the front of the train, inspecting it. I find out that we've hit 3 cows and killed them. It's awful. Beth and I both have tears and deep sadness for the animals. We are in shock. About 45 minutes pass before we all understand what is happening.
They are waiting for another car. We had backed up only a few hundred feet to the platform we'd just passed and are now all out of the damaged car with our luggage. Things seem to be getting organized. Within 1 more hour we are on a new car and moving again but we are going very slowly. Hours pass, we're freezing and hungry. All the train food is meat. I make a dinner from the rice with peanuts and dried bananas but it's not good. We have water and a toilet but we are filthy. We've been traveling for 5 days. We're really dirty, we stink. All of our clothes are wet and moldy. We don't have enough warm clothes with us to ever really feel comfortable. At about 10pm (1.5 hours after we were supposed to arrive in Chiang Mai) they tell us we're being shifted again to a bus. No one can get a straight answer as to why. There is 1 woman on the train that speaks both Thai and English, she is the translator for the 20 or so westerners, bless her. We park the train at a platform and move to the bus. About 2 hours later we pull into the Chiang Mai train platform. It's after midnight. COLD. We have called a guest house during the bus ride and have a reservation. We arrive, get into bed and finally get some rest at about 1.:30 am.

Today, we have found that Chiang Mai is vegetarian friendly. This morning we both did our yoga practice in the room, had a hot shower, dropped our moldy clothes off for washing, dried out our bags and now we've even eaten delicious vegetarian food and seen the sun.

Things are looking up.

I'll post pictures later when I have had a chance to upload them.  

Tomorrow is unknown

I have a ticket to leave the island tomorrow morning at 6am. I do not know if my ferry boat will actually leave but now I am starting to think, maybe I should stay?

I have been traveling for 3 days and still have not reached my destination. I don't know what to do. If I leave tomorrow I can travel with Beth to Chiang Mai and this will mean 2 more days of travel but at least I will get to see Chiang Mai.
If I stay I know I can get to one place with Jenny that does yoga, Ananda yoga. It isn't my practice but, it's something. Also if I stay, there is still a chance for me to reach the beach where my course is... but there is also a chance I cannot. Also, also the weather is calling for rain for at least the next 4 days. Some say 10 days, some say 2 days. This rain is atypical for this time of year and has brought many things to a hault.

No matter what I do I need to either be traveling to the next place or relax here and stop being in travel mode because a fourth day of travel without going anywhere might just push my mellow spirit over the edge. Luckily I have made good travel friends. There is that.

Looking up

We (Beth and I) have spent most of the day looking for a ride to the other side of the island. She has been a good travel buddy for me. She loves to eat (is skinny as a stick though) which I forget to do under stress and makes sure we always know where our next meal is coming from. She's from FL, in her 50's and also practices Ashtanga. Together we have gotten proper rain gear, some snacks, and other essentials. I think we've finally found a ride to the other side of the island. No boats or truck taxi's have been going because of the poor weather. The rain let up some, giving us hope, but it has started again now. So the outcome is still touch and go.
If the truck taxi goes, then I will be at my yoga place (which has changed venues--I'm guessing because so many people have likely cancelled due to the very poor road conditions and heavy swells, and therefore transportation issues--but I have been in contact with the teacher and he says they are practicing.)
If I cannot get to the venue on the other side of the island tonight, I will consider heading out of here tomorrow and going to chiang mai.
The forecast is saying rain for the next 10 days...

Not such an interesting note but there it is. 

More Rain

Forecast for the next 10 days, rain.
I have no rain gear. None.
There is no ATM on the island. *edited to add: there is an ATM but only on one side of the Island*
Also, no one is awake on the beach I'm on which means no coffee. It's 6am. Dying for a cup of coffee.

I'm already thinking about planning a trip back to the mainland for supplies. Hopefully my friend A will come with me.

I miss city life and India and home.

Koh Phangan

I made it to Koh Phangan. My train was supposed to be a 12 hour journey, it was 14 which meant I missed my early morning ferry and did not get to the meet up spot for my yoga workshop at 4pm.
It's pissing rain here, many of the road to get to the ferry are flooded many ferry boats would not run in this weather. After the overnight train to Surat Thani from Bangkok I got the bus to the ferry dock and was told we could not take the boat because the waves are too high. So, a big group of us all waited in a leaky ferry dock spot, with bad overpriced coffee and no where really dry to sit. We are told the bus will take us to another ferry dock. We wait for 1 hour. Another bus comes, we all get on the bus pack our luggage under in the carriage, arrange ourselves and then we are told to get off the bus the roads are flooded, the bus will not go today. So we take a van taxi back to Surat Thani, get a hotel (280 baht), pay extra for wireless internet(200 baht), call several places to see if I can get anyone who is running to the island bus/boat. No one is answering or they are not going today. I shower, and leave the hotel to look for a place in the city. I find one agency that is going! bus  & boat 350 baht. I go back to my hotel (I have 45 minutes) gather my things and go back to the agency--mind you it is down pouring the whole time I am trudging along with my bags and no umbrella--I get a bus from the agency to the bus depot. I wait for 2.5 hours. We all get on the bus at the bus depot and travel along several roads that are flooded. Cars are stopped stuck in the water, people are wading through the flood up to their waists, others sit on the top of picnic tables with their legs dangling in the water watching the rain, big trees float by. this ride is supposed to take 45 minutes. it takes us 1 hour and 45 minutes. I have met a friend, a Russian boy named Pasha who sits with me while I writhe in pain over the fact that I have to urinate so badly. finally i cannot take it anymore and i go ask the driver to stop. he does not stop for me. Pasha goes to tell the driver to stop, the driver stops, I run to the side of the road and pee, pee, pee for ever while everyone on the bus can see. Nothing to wipe with. What to do? doesn't matter anyway as I am totally soaked through what is a little piss to add to the rain? nothing. we get to the ferry boat with 10 mins to give our tickets and get on. I sit with luggage for Pasha and an American, Beth. While they go buy boat tickets (I pay for Pasha because he has no money left 220 baht) we all load onto the boat in what can only be described as throw up seas. Whoa. I feel so sick. the whole 3.5 hour ride I fight back vomit. There is a group of monks with us on the ferry, young and old. Somehow sitting with them is comforting to me I love the colors of their robes and the fact that their age range is from 9 to 60 yrs, all male. We meet another lady Jennifer from Sweden and a Canadian man, Brian. Brian lives on the island and helps Jenny, Beth and I get a bungalow near the ferry (ish) a 20 minute ride in the back of a truck taxi (100 baht) and we arrive at the bungalow. My room is not clean, the blanket has been recently used, there are dirty underwear in the bathroom trash can. I don't care. Brian has secretly given me the wireless code so I have internet! I call Hunnie to tell him about my crazy Thailand adventure and to write this note while I can access the internet. I'm told it's very expensive here (12usd for 10 mins internet access) and also that it's hard to get anything on the island, including fruit. My friend A. has been here for 1 day and says no one will bargain, everything is priced double and that I am lucky my phone works because hers wont. My phone doesn't work to call out, only for people to call me internationally and to make local calls, sometimes.
It's nearly midnight now. I need to be up at 6am at the latest. I've still got to get a taxi ferry to the right beach for the yoga workshop in the morning, I have not had a crap in 2 days and I am dry for the first time in over 12 hours. I am about to sleep in a dirty bed with a dirty blanket.

If I don't write for 10 days you will know it's because I have not found inexpensive internet. I will still write when I have time and I will post when I get back to Bangkok.

I have still not really taken photos. I had my camera packed away so it didn't get wet most of the day and I am too tired to upload the few photos I have taken.

Even with all the rain and flooding you can see how beautiful it is here. Everything is lush and green the water changes colors depending on the ground, sometimes it's orange, sometimes its brown, or red, or even a pretty creamy color.

*clearly I have not edited this post, no time, don't judge.

Jenny, & Pasha with his tuva. We asked him for a demonstration. 

It's hard to tell but it was POURING the rain was really loud. This is back in Surat Thani. 

The floods. 

No Sex Tourism

I hopped into a cab with my directions written out in Thai for a vegetarian & vegan restaurant a friend suggested. The driver said it would take at least an hour to get there because of the traffic. He also wanted to add 50 Baht to the meter because, because, he did. I had heard that this time of night was not good for traffic so I had a second option. The Parong Night Market, he said this will only take 30 minutes and he’ll do it for a 25 Baht charge on top of the meter. Okay.

As we’re driving he begins offering me things. Sex is first. When I tell him no he tries to convince me that, yes I really do want it. “Freestyle in Bangkok, you want gay? Lady-boy? Lady? Ladies nice, so sexy.” No. I shake my head and laugh at him because it’s awkward and funny and feels sad to me that a taxi driver is trying to convince me to buy sex. He isn’t the slightest bit put off. “Gay is okay. Bangkok freestyle”, as I’m shaking my head no again he tells me he can get really good cocaine, ganja, and some other drug with a name I’ve never heard of that he thinks is amazing. He begins to show me how you use it. He mimics holding a spoon, pouring drugs on it and lighting below the spoon to cook up the drugs. “Crack?” I ask. He shakes his head yes. “So good, happy feeling. 1am done work, disco, I will do.” He is telling me that he smokes crack*. Really? Is he really telling me that? I suggest that he not smoke crack, I say it’s bad for him, that it’s bad for his body, and his heart. I know that’s a ridiculously naive thing to say but I can’t help it. He’s laughing, a little maniacally, and tells me that “Bangkok freestyle”.  He goes back to offering me sex. “2 ladies, one Singapore, one Chinese, SO sexy.” I resort to my Indian stand-by and begin to talk about my husband and yoga. “I tell him no drugs, no drinking, I am doing yoga. I am only for my husband, no sex.” He thinks this is hysterical. He says “so sorry” many times when offering me these things that I say no to. He’s doing his best to get me what I want while not offending me. Also, I’m pretty sure he’s high out of his mind. I have no fear though. He’s going to bring me where I’d like to go, he’s not driving wild, he doesn’t try to touch me, and he has been kind enough to give me the skinny. It isn’t his fault I don’t want it. He’s quite pleasant in his own way.

In the hostel where I stay there are signs everywhere saying “NO SEX TOURISM” unregistered guests are not allowed beyond the front lobby area, it’s a strict rule, which they enforce. In the massage shop where I got a Thai massage earlier today there are signs that say, “NO SEX”. 

But, if you walk down my road a bit towards the street venders you can easily identify sex for sale. It’s not a secret. There are dildos and vibrators on tables for sale next to Viagra and condoms. There are pimps sitting next to groups of women and men (dressed as women, rather convincingly) holding out pornographic pamphlets. There are tables with signs saying Valium (which I'm told is fake) and other drugs for sale next to displays of personal lubricants and sex paraphernalia.  There is a shop near the night market called Sweet Pussy. All over the city you see white men with Thai women. I’m sorry but no chance all these men are here with their Thai wives.

As I was eating my dinner on the sidewalk tonight an Australian man and a Thai woman came over and sat down. She ordered her food and we got talking. It turns out he met her in a bar and bought her for the night. He had to pay the barman to leave with her. 650 Baht, 21.66 USD. She had great English and yet, he couldn’t understand her. She asked him if he wanted some chicken noodle soup. He said no. She said you don’t like chicken noodle soup? Have you ever had it? He said no. I laughed and said, “Surely you’ve had chicken noodle soup before, haven’t you?” He said “Well, yes it’s just that I can’t understand her.”

Huh. I understood her just fine. 

     ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

At the airport I had to go to the domestic cargo office to pick up train tickets I purchased online. As it turns out it was a not-so-simple task. I took 3 (wrong) shuttle buses and eventually ended up in what looked like the cargo area but, wasn’t.  A woman that rode the final bus with me saw me hauling around my big bag and felt bad for me. She called someone to find out where the cargo office was, hailed me a taxi, helped me get change, told the driver where I needed to go, wished me well and thanked me when I went on my way. Pleasant.

That’s the thing I’ve noticed about Thailand. People are just, pleasant. Even when you’re being a stupid tourist and forget your brain, (it happens a lot). They suggest other places you might try if they don’t have what you want. They will call a friend for directions for you. They will happily write down addresses in Thai. If they overhear you are stuck in some way, they will try to help you, nicely. When they are being bought for the night for 650 Baht they will take you to their favorite street stall for dinner and offer you a meal.

Nice.

I haven’t done anything touristy since I’ve been here. I don’t have the energy. I’ve just been relaxing, enjoying the fact that people are friendly, the food is good and fresh, and just generally decompressing from India. There are parts of Bangkok that are hard to look at for me. Of course there is poverty, the drugs and sex for sale everywhere is a lot, but generally I am ignored. I am nobody here. My white skin doesn’t mean that people stare at me, my bare shoulders are nothing compared to many of the half naked bodies that surround me, and my American accent doesn’t get me attention either. It’s not loud here or chaotic, there are no farm animals in the street, the dress is western, the food is mostly meat but it’s a really pleasant shift from India.

*he was talking about yaba--a popular amphetamine in Thailand 

Bangkok

I'm feeling a little shy about taking pictures here but that'll shift I'm sure.
Day 1, noodles, clinic for my toe, and a thai massage.
Feeling good and starting to learn my way around the neighborhood.
Tonight the night market for a little clothes shopping.
More later, hopefully with photos. 

Tetanus Shot in Thailand?

I'm sitting in the Mumbai airport enjoying the free internet access ... When suddenly I recall, I stepped on a nail this morning (3:45am) as I was heading to my taxi for the ride to the airport. Right. 
OK. I just inspected the toe, it has a dark spot where the nail went in. Hurts a little. But, it's probably fine. Ya?


On another note. I got into an argument with my taxi driver, also at about 3:45am. He did not want to use the meter for the drive to the airport, "meter problem". Which is the whole friggin' reason I ordered city cab in the first place. I was not impressed. 
Between the loud music thumping from the club one floor below me, and getting several phone calls from the cab company attempting (in a language I don't understand) to confirm my hotel address, I got about 4 hours of sleep. Fine, plenty of sleep for traveling. Not enough sleep for someone trying to cheat me and for me to remain patient. Ahem. Well, in my defense he was trying to over charge me in a situation specifically set up to eliminate that possibility. And, it just gets so exhausting to always be looked at as a dollar sign here. I had, had enough. So I stomped my feet a little, said some things about not pissing me off at 4am, perhaps swore once or twice (exact words were, "for fucks sake") and in the end the meter miraculously started working again. Of course, I still over tipped him. 
Even though he tried to cheat me and nearly killed us (not regular Indian driving nearly killed us, REALLY nearly killed us) twice. Because, bless him, the man slept in his car outside my hotel room, maybe makes 2,000 Rupees a month ($45 USD) saw an opportunity to make some money off of a rich westerner (albeit deceitful money, but that's his karma) and took it. How can I judge that? 


Bangkok in 5 hours. Which does not include time change, so 7 hours. 
A different country! Weird. 

Madam! Madam! Madam!

My last practice. I am scolded upon entering the shala. Apparently, I was supposed to arrive this morning at 6:30 am. Leave it to me to be a spectacle on my last day. "You! Very Late! 6:30! Coming!" Everyone stops practice and stares at me. I look at the clock, shrug my shoulders and go to the ladies changing room.
Though my practice is usually 1 hour 20 minutes (minus closing & Savasana) today it is 1 hour and 5 minutes. Yet, I am last to get assistance in back drops. I feel a little punishment (imagined?) since my first drop to the floor is whipped up rapidly, and a little painful. It is okay, the second, third and finally the hold are nice. Saraswathi gives me my push in Paschimottanasana (seated forward fold) turns around, marches into her office, shuts the light, and locks the door. No photo for me.

My last 2 coconuts. 1 water, 1 sweet. The sweet one he cuts open for me so I can eat the jelly inside. Delicious.

My last chai. An event. They all notice my camera bag and photos are requested. "Madam, Madam, Madam, 1 photo!" They are posing, smiling, shoving, and demanding my attention. I take photos and we all gather around my camera to preview them on my little screen. I joke with them and tell them to stop looking so series. Okay, "Last one." "but Madam! Madam! Madam! Me!!!"

Chai Brothers

Little Chai

Big Chai

This is "big chai", little chai wasn't there. He requested a copy of the picture and also that I photograph him next to the motorcycles.

Why Pain is There

Lunch was a delicious plate of food from a local spot where they serve buffet, 150 Rupees, for all you can eat. About $3.40 usd kinda' spendy but totally worth it. Except for the fact that I am in over-full agony. I think I will be heading to Thailand a few pounds heavier. 


The first two photos are of a note posted on the door of their squat toilet. The photos have a greenish color to them because the blinds in the restaurant are green which gives all patrons a look of illness while eating there. 

"Mind your aim."

plate: 2 chapati, rice, green beans & coconut, aloo gobi, and cabbage something. 

Side dishes: beets & carrots, cucumber with tomato & cilantro, and dal. 

Dessert: some sort of date pudding. It was amazing. Usually I skip dessert because they are too sweet but I had a second helping of this. 

Napping after eating is allowed. 

behind the half wall is a table with all the food set up